Trout
Fishing in Argentina:
By
Charles G. Thacher
This short guide to fishing in Argentina is based on my five
trips there between 1995 and 2001, in addition to various things
I have read and discussions I have had with Argentine guides
and fishermen. My first trip was fully guided, and the subsequent
trips were self-guided. I am looking forward to many more.
Argentina
is a large country, about one-third the size of our contiguous
states. The best fishing areas begin about 800 miles southwest
of Buenos Aires in Northern Patagonia and stretch over 1,000
air miles south to Tierra del Fuego. If you intend to go to
Argentina to fish, there is one book you must read. Although
now 10 years old, it remains current and is essential reading.
It's called Argentine Trout Fishing, by William U. Leitch. It's
well written and informative - as good a travel book as a fishing
book.
Leitch
divides Argentine Patagonia into three zones - Northern, Central
and Southern. The Northern zone, which is where my trips have
been, is the most settled and has the most services for fly
fishermen but still falls far short of our Rocky Mountain areas
on both counts. The Central zone is more remote with fewer services,
although it offers several popular lodges. The Southern zone
is a barren land that appeals to fishermen who want to stay
at great lodges and catch the world's largest sea run brown
trout in some of the most inclement weather anywhere. The driving
distance between the Central zone and the Southern zone is over
1,000 miles, most of which is on primitive dirt roads, so it
is best flown, unless you have unlimited time and are a skilled
auto mechanic.
All
of the notes that follow apply to the Northern zone, although
the comments on fishing conditions, techniques and flies would
also apply to the Central zone.
Getting
There
There
are direct flights to Buenos Aires from New York and other flights
stopping in Miami. The direct flight takes about 11 hours. Airfare
was about $1,000 roundtrip in February 2001. By the way, Argentina
is well east of the US and two hours ahead of Eastern Standard
Time, which surprises many people. From Buenos Aires the next
flight is usually to San Carlos de Bariloche, although it is
possible to fly to San Martin de Los Andes (Chapelco Airport).
The latter destination is generally more convenient, but the
flights don't coordinate well with the Buenos Aires flights
(unless you are staying overnight in Buenos Aires) and are less
frequent. The flights from Buenos Aires to Bariloche and San
Martin (each taking about 2-1/2 hours) are from a different
airport than the one where your flight from the US will land,
and the trip between airports can take well over an hour. Usually
the luggage can't be checked through, so plenty of time is needed
between flights. It may also be possible to get to the prime
Argentine fishing areas by connecting through Santiago, Chile.
 Once you arrive in Bariloche
or San Martin, the next step will depend on whether your trip
is guided or self-guided. If guided, then your guide will meet
you and you don't have any more concerns. If self-guided, then
you'll need a car, which can be rented at the airport (at least
in Bariloche) or in town. Rental cars are expensive and should
be reserved well in advance. Expect to pay $70 to $90 a day,
including insurance for a standard car. A 4-wheel drive is preferable,
although not essential, but will be more difficult to get and
even more expensive. Another point - gasoline is $3 to $4 a
gallon, so figure in that into your budget.
What's
It Cost?
No
matter how it's done, this is an expensive trip, particularly
when compared to fishing in our Rocky Mountain areas. But what
can you do if you want to catch trout in our winter? Chile costs
about the same. New Zealand? Also expensive, and it's harder
to get there.
I've
estimated the cost three ways - guided, self-guided with half
the time in fishing lodges, and self-guided with no fishing
lodges. The costs are per person for two people assuming 10
days of fishing and 10 nights lodging. Remember, you'll have
two more nights lodging on the plane. That's free! The fishing
lodges (some of which are not accessible without guides) control
access to some of the best water in the Northern zone, so avoiding
them completely could detract from the quality (from a fishing
perspective) of your trip, unless you're an experienced Argentine
fisherman, in which case you probably would have stopped reading
this a while ago. Here's the cost breakdown:
Fully
Guided Self-guided/ Self guided/
5 Lodge Nights No lodges
Air
fare $1,000 $1,000 $1,000
Guide Service/tips $5,300 $0 $0
Lodging $0 $2,100 $700
Food/Wine $100 $350 $700
Car (including gas) $0 $500 $500
Misc. $150 $250 $350
TOTAL $6,650 $4,200 $3,250
The
above are general guidelines. There are many variations. You
could do a self-guided trip with a few days of guiding, you
could camp, sleep in your car, skip the wine (an act of total
desperation), etc. If you go by yourself, the per person costs
are higher for a guide service and lodging, and double for the
car.
A
note about money…. The Argentine currency is the peso.
A little over a decade ago, to contain rampant inflation, the
government set the peso equal in value to a US dollar. No pesos
can be printed that are not backed by dollars. Inflation has
been controlled, although at a cost of high unemployment and
high prices (for Latin America) for many goods and services.
For the American tourist an advantage is that dollars can often
serve as a local currency, particularly for larger purchases
and payments. Although lodges and most restaurants and stores
take credit cards, there can be advantages, including discounts,
for paying cash, so I'd carry a fair amount, including pesos.
Guide
Services
On
a first trip for most people, I'd recommend using a guide service,
unless you're going with someone experienced. Otherwise you
could spend a lot of time looking for prime river access. However,
for the more adventurous - who are patient, willing to do some
advance research and can confer with someone who is experienced
- a self-guided trip is a definite possibility. It can be very
rewarding to find your own way, and you will meet more of the
wonderful Argentinean people if you're on your own. Knowledge
of Spanish would enhance your experience, but is not essential.
In any event, get detailed local maps and study them in advance.
 There are numerous guide
services that advertise in fly fishing magazines, catalogs and
on the Internet. Most of the guides that I have met are Argentines
and they are fine anglers and teachers, personable, and fluent
in English. I have also met American and European guides who
seem equally qualified. The guide services mostly use the same
fishing lodges (there aren't that many), so the variation in
experiences is likely to result from your compatibility with
your guide. You will be living with the guide for your entire
trip, so you may want to get references. If you find a guide
service that is less expensive than others, it may be because
they don't use the top lodges, use older vehicles, etc., which
could affect the quality of your trip. Also, some of the lodges
can supply their own guides.
If
you are on a guided trip, the guide will take care of all local
travel details. You just show up. If you're self-guided, you
will need to make reservations at motels (often called hosterias
or hostals) and/or fishing lodges well in advance, at least
four months for the lodges.
The
Towns
You
will probably land in Bariloche in the early afternoon. It's
the largest town in the area - over 75,000 people. This is a
popular resort area with many places to stay, but it is quite
a distance from most of the best fishing spots. San Martin de
Los Andes and Junin de Los Andes are more centrally located.
San
Martin is nearly a three-hour drive from Bariloche. The shortest
road (100 miles) is that over Paso Del Cordoba. It's scenic,
passes several nice streams, but is winding and mostly dirt.
The road past Villa Angostura and going along the Siete Lagos
(Seven Lakes) is even more scenic, somewhat farther (130 miles)
and also mostly dirt. The fully paved road through Junin is
longer (170 miles) and not very scenic. My experience is that
these roads take within about 15 minutes of one another. Watch
your gas tank, as there are no services between Confluencia
(about 40 miles north of Bariloche) and San Martin or Junin.
 By the way, I have not
found driving in rural Argentina to be much different than in
the rural USA. Except, a lot more dirt roads and fewer services.
Argentines in rural areas tend to drive more slowly than I do
- possibly because there are many old vehicles. Buenos Aires
is another matter.
San
Martin is a summer and winter resort area. It is a charming,
Tyrolean town of about 25,000, beautifully situated on Lago
Lacar. There are many hosterias, but it is a popular tourist
destination, so reserve in advance. Use the Internet. There
are also excellent restaurants and other services that you might
need, including a small fly shop (where you can buy a license),
although you shouldn't expect to find much of a tackle selection.
Tackle is more expensive here than in the US. San Martin also
has a disco, if you can deal with starting your evening's entertainment
well after midnight. San Martin is not as convenient (by a half
hour) to most of the prime fishing as Junin, but it is much
nicer and more interesting.
Junin
is a sleepy town of about 8,000. It has a nice new fly shop,
but lacks the vitality or charm of San Martin. It does have
some lodging and restaurants, and can be fun if there's a gaucho
festival going on, which is fairly common. One of the area's
top rivers, the Chimehuin, runs right through the middle of
town and that section is excellent fishing.
The
Principal Rivers
The
reason to go to Argentina is the rivers. They are numerous,
varied in type, crystal clear and lightly fished. Most days
you see no other fishermen. I will cover the principal rivers
that are most commonly fished, proceeding north from Bariloche.
There are many other beautiful rivers with trout and public
access that are more rarely fished, and which will probably
entice me on a future trip.
 Many of the best rivers,
or sections of rivers, flow through private estancias (ranches)
and access is effectively controlled by these estancias. I say
effectively because the river access law in Argentina is similar
to that in Montana. The riverbed to the high water mark and
a few more feet is public even if the surrounding land is private.
So, legally, you can fish the river in an estancia by entering
from a public spot, but frequently this is impractical. So it
may be necessary to stay at the lodge run by the estancia or
gain permission (not likely) there in order to have access to
fish. The estancias are frequently huge, even by our Western
standards. 50,000 acres is common, with some much larger.
Traful
- About one hour's drive north of Bariloche on the paved road
to Junin. A world-renowned river for its landlocked salmon and
prodigious browns and rainbows. The water is incredibly clear
- some think too clear. The salmon move down from Lago Traful
and can be in the river at any time, but most are caught in
the spring (November and December) and fall (March and April).
Fishing in the Traful can be very challenging and frustrating.
Even experienced anglers often have fishless days. Large fish
rarely rise, and dry flies are unlikely to be effective. Most
effective are brown or green woolly buggers (imitating the pelican
crab which is prevalent in many Northern zone rivers), and large
nymphs. But the trout can be of astonishing size, particularly
in girth - some could use a truss.
There
is a short public access area of the Traful above where it enters
a reservoir - a few miles off the paved road. But most of its
10 miles is controlled by two estancias, one of which is no
longer open to the public. The north bank can be accessed by
staying at the Arroyo Verde lodge - one of the best and most
expensive fishing lodges in the world. Unguided (if possible)
figure $400 per person per day. I haven't been there, but many
say it's worth it. The south bank was controlled by the Estancia
Primavera, which operated a lodge for many years. (I have stayed
there), but the estancia has recently been purchased by Ted
Turner (that's right, with the whole 10 miles of riverbank),
and is now closed to the public.
The
Traful is an extraordinarily beautiful river, and certainly
worth a few days to try to catch some monster fish that are
clearly visible. But be ready to work hard below the surface
for a few fish and possibly be skunked. By the way, both guides
and other fishermen that I have spoken with have concurred that
the past two years have been unusually difficult fishing on
the Traful. I guess Ted's timing is not always impeccable.
 Caleufu - A beautiful mid-sized
river formed by the Meliquina and Filo Hua Him, both of which
are also nice trout streams (primarily in the early season).
Much of the Caleufu (middle section) can be accessed only by
staying at a private ranch owned by Douglas Reed. Easy public
access is available on the upper river from where it runs alongside
the road over Paso Del Cordoba. There is a sign for the short
Puente Negro turnoff. This river can be excellent dry fly water.
Go downstream a ways from the bridge. Access to the lower section
is possible, but is an out-of-the-way drive from where you're
likely to be.
Chimehuin
- A river of nearly 50 miles flowing out of the beautiful Lago
Huechulafquen to the
confluence with the Aluminé to ultimately form the Collon Cura.
The boca (mouth) of the Chimehuin at the lake is world famous,
having produced some of the largest trout ever caught on a fly
rod. The boca is about 15 miles from Junin, and is well worth
visiting for its scenic beauty and tradition. You might even
catch a very large fish, particularly in the fall when they
are most likely to be leaving the lake. Beware of the wind,
which even by Patagonian standards can be ferocious.
The
boca is a unique fishing experience, but the rest of the Chimehuin
will remind you of some of your favorite mid-sized American
rivers. Except virtually no one is fishing there! It holds many
large rainbows and browns. Below Junin some of the best water
flows through an estancia where it is private. The estancia
operates a small lodge (Los Pinos), but you can sometimes arrange
to pay a $25 fee to fish for the day on the estancia's land.
The Chimehuin has riffles, pools and all other features of a
beautiful trout river. Hatches occur, but in my experience are
sporadic. Caddis in the evening is probably the most common.
When there is no hatch, try attractor flies, large nymphs and
the ubiquitous woolly bugger.
 There is much public access
- all the way from the boca to well downstream from Junin. My
favorite spot, and some of the best water that I've ever fished
anywhere, is reached by walking less than a mile down the Quilquihue
River from where it flows under the San Martin-Junin Road (you'll
see a parking lot there) to the junction with the Chimehuin.
Go upstream or downstream from the confluence. I prefer downstream.
Quilquihue
- A beautiful tributary of the Chimehuin entering downstream
from Junin. Best in the early season. Public access at the bridge
on the San Martin/Junin road and near Chapelco airport. Also,
private access (for a fee) at the same estancia that controls
much of the lower Chimehuin. No need to tie a nymph or woolly
bugger on here. Fish near the banks regularly come up for attractor
flies, and you're likely to see rising fish. The Currhue is
another early-season river that crosses the road between San
Martin and Junin a few miles north of the Quilquihue.
Malleo
- One of the top dry fly rivers in Argentina - or anywhere.
About the size of the Beaverkill. Crosses a dirt (slowly being
paved) road about 15 miles north of Junin. Along another dirt
road, going upstream for about five miles or downstream for
maybe 10 miles there is public access, although gringos may
be asked to pay a few dollars to enter the Indian reservation
downstream. The public section is nice and can produce excellent
fishing, but the three to four miles upstream from the first
bridge to the second bridge is more heavily fished than other
rivers in Argentina. That means that you might see a fisherman.
The water above the second bridge is a better choice, and public
access is available from the bridge.
The
great reputation of the Malleo is based on the private section
of about 15 miles above the public water. This section is controlled
by an estancia that operates an excellent fishing lodge - Hosteria
San Huberto. Figure, $300 per day unguided (again, if possible).
Much of the top half of this section (called "tres picos") of
the Malleo is a quiet meadow stream, then it goes through a
short canyon, and becomes a faster flowing river of riffles
and pools. The river is lined with willows throughout, and the
larger rainbows and browns frequently hide in them. It's a classic,
beautiful trout stream. Hatches, particularly caddis, can be
prolific, but fish will often rise to attractor flies, and nymphs
are effective.
Upstream
from the San Huberto property much of the river flows through
private estancias, although the first several miles below the
boca are in the Lanin National Park where there is public access.
It is a smaller, mountain river here and the fishing can be
excellent. In the park you will be surrounded by a major grove
of araucaria (monkey puzzle) trees, which is enchanting. And
in the late summer/early fall look under the female trees for
the pinones, which can be peeled for excellent eating (even
better if roasted) - tasting something like a chestnut. You
can also buy pinones at a product market to bring home.
The
San Huberto can accommodate about a dozen fishermen. The service,
accommodations and general ambiance provided by Carlos and Carmine
Olsen, the owners, are wonderful, and given the accessibility
of a variety of water types, a stay of five days would not be
too long. The estancia also operates a lodge on beautiful Logo
Tromen (the source of the Malleo), which is popular for boat
fishing, especially for brook trout to five pounds.
If
you travel about eight to 10 miles past San Huberto on the road
to Chile, you will see a yellow bridge crossing the Malleo.
This otherwise private section of excellent water can be accessed
by entering the riverbed from the bridge, upstream or downstream.
Of course, you must stay along the riverbed.
 An unforgettable sight
on the upper Malleo is Lanin, a dormant volcano in the classic
conical shape. At over 12,000 feet, it towers above the landscape.
Lanin is always covered with snow, and it would be a stolid
angler indeed who could resist putting down his rod to spend
at least a few minutes contemplating its majesty and, of course,
snapping a few pictures.
A
small stream, the Huaca Mamuil, enters the Malleo upstream from
the yellow bridge. This can provide excellent fishing in the
early season.
Aluminé
- This is a large river that has already flowed for about 75
miles when the Malleo enters it. If you proceed north on the
dirt road after crossing the Malleo, in about 25 miles you will
cross the Aluminé and then the road runs along the river for
about 50 miles. A gorgeous river with intermittent pools and
rapids. Probably only a couple of dozen people live along these
50 miles of river. Most people fish the Aluminé by boat with
a guide. Float trips usually start from the tiny village of
Rahue and can go for 1-3 days.
I
floated the Aluminé for one day, and have fished for a few hours
along the road, so I can't claim any profound knowledge. Fishing
was tough, with only an occasional rising fish. But it's enticing
water and has a reputation of being productive at times. The
river is best known for prolific "hatches" of small green worms
that fall from the willow trees in March. Supposedly, that's
the best time to be on the river with any fly that's green and
tubular.
 There is a good lodge at
Rahue called Hostería Quillen. It's not as pricey as some of
the other lodges, but the accommodations are fine and the food
and hospitality are as good as any. It provides excellent access
to the Aluminé and lower Quillen.
Quillen
- The Quillen flows into the Aluminé at Rahue. It's my favorite
Argentine river - one of my favorites anyplace. It's similar
in size to the Malleo. You never need to fish below the surface
in this river, although it can be effective. The bottom five
to 10 miles of the Quillen allow public access in many spots,
and it is beautiful, productive water. But the upper section
(to about a mile below Lago Quillen) is the real gem, and it
is accessible by staying at Puerto Lussich, a small but charming
(and expensive) lodge on one of the two estancias that control
this section of the river. Puerto Lussich also has accommodations
on Lago Quillen, and the other estancia also has a lodge. I
have stayed on the upper Quillen three times for nine days,
and no one else was at the lodge all of that time. Keep in mind,
this is quite remote. It's about 80 miles on a dirt road (with
no services) from Junin. But really not a bad trip.
The
Quillen has all kinds of water - riffles, flat pools, back eddies,
even some sections with large weed beds - very much like a spring
creek. It is not easy to catch the large trout, but there are
plenty around. Sippers can often be spotted, and they provide
the same challenges and pleasures as on our rivers. I have never
seen another angler on the Quillen. Attractor dries are effective,
particularly in the faster water, when there are no rising fish.
A #12 Adams is very reliable.
 If you stay at Puerto Lussich
you eat your meals with the owner, Mario Lussich, and his family.
He's an expert and incredibly enthusiastic fisherman, and often
will accompany (i.e., guide) guests for a day of fishing. He's
a partner in the Buenos Aires Orvis shop. You might ask him
about the Mallalco, but don't be surprised if you can't get
to fish this small, beautiful spring creek (a tributary of the
Quillen) because its fragility is assiduously protected. If
you get to fish it, you should have an unforgettable day.
Other
Rivers - There are other rivers in the Northern zone that can
provide fine fishing. These include smaller rivers such as the
Norquinco and Trocomen, and large rivers such as the Collon
Cura and Limay. For me, another time.
Equipment
and Flies
The
summer weather in Patagonia is similar to Montana. It will generally
be pleasant but can turn cold quickly. So, just in case the
temperature is in the 40s or 50s, bring some warm clothing.
And, of course, rain gear. Breathable waders should be fine.
A
5-weight rod with some backbone should handle most fishing situations.
But the wind in Patagonia can be stronger than anything that
I have experienced in our West, so I would recommend also bringing
a sturdy 6 or 7 weight rod. A heavier rod can also be useful
if you fish with streamers.
The
selection of flies should be similar to those used for our Western
rivers. I've found royal or Ausable wulffs, and parachute Adams
in sizes 12-14 to be the best attractor dry flies. For rising
fish, effective mayfly imitations include regular and parachute
adams, PMDs and other standard patterns in sizes 12-16. The
usual caddis patterns work. Rarely do you need to go below size
16 although, just as in our rivers, sippers can require smaller
flies, ants or beetles, and small pheasant tail droppers are
often effective. Along the banks and around the willows, hoppers
can work even if you don't see any naturals in the grass.
 On some rivers, or during
some periods, you will probably need to fish under the surface
to be successful. Woolly buggers in all colors, and dark stonefly
and prince nymphs are effective. Muddlers stripped without weight
through currents. Bead caddis has been less effective for me
here than on our rivers.
Although
Argentine trout are generally not highly selective, perhaps
because they are not fished over very much, you will still need
to exercise stealth and make a good presentation to consistently
catch rising fish or those hiding in the willows.
Traditions
To
maximize the enjoyment of a trip, Argentine traditions should
be experienced. First, Argentines take a siesta from fishing
from about 2 - 4:30 pm each day. You may go back to the lodge
for lunch and a snooze, or partake of the same at the river.
Lunch can be elaborate, and usually includes wine. By the way,
wine almost always means red. White wine is held in low regard.
Many of the best Argentine producers do not export their wines
so, if you like red wines, you should bring some home.
There
is a very strong gaucho tradition in rural Argentina. You will
frequently see gauchos along the road or river. Gauchos normally
wear some articles of very bright clothing - they are salmon
flies to our stonefly cowboys. Various styles of men's clothing
and many foods are attributed to gaucho traditions. Throughout
the day, the guides might be drinking maté, a strong gaucho
tea-like beverage which is believed to promote good health -
particularly to ameliorate any adverse effects of the large
amounts of red meat and wine consumed by the locals. Argentines
enjoy sharing their mate, and you should join in, if asked (oops!
I meant maté). Actually, I like it, especially with a pinch
of sugar. Beer (usually Ouilmes) is also popular.
 Another tradition is the
asado, or barbecue. This involves grilling half a lamb and,
sometimes a variety of other meats, and pouring lots of red
wine. And it is always a festive occasion. An invitation to
an asado should be prized.
Most
of the prime Argentine trout water is no-kill. This was probably
easier to accomplish than here in the US because Argentines
generally have a low regard for the taste and dietary benefits
of fish. You might encounter a fish on your plate in some of
the more upscale lodges, but rarely in other places that you
dine. In fact, chicken is also less common than in the US. Usually
it's beef or lamb, sometimes veal, and occasionally glands.
Plus excellent sausages of many types. Appetizers, side dishes
and desserts are great. Don't miss the extraordinary flans,
usually served with a rich, delectable caramel-like syrup called
dulce de leche. You can bring home packages of flan and containers
of dulce de leche.
Traveling
to Chile
Many
fishermen combine a trip to the Northern zone of Argentina with
a trip to southern Chile. If you are doing that and your Chilean
trip connects through Puerto Montt, there is a great way to
travel between Puerto Montt (or Puerto Vans) and Bariloche.
It's called the Cruce de Lagos, and it's a series of boat and
bus rides across the Andes. It runs every day. You leave early
in the morning and arrive in the early evening of the same day.
You check your luggage straight through. The scenery is magnificent,
the transportation is very comfortable, and the connections
are very reliable. The other options for traveling between the
two countries are (i) taking a series of flights going back
through both Buenos Aires and Santiago. (ii) Driving a rental
car, which probably entails complicated or expensive drop-off
problems, or (iii) hiring a driver, which is expensive. Frankly,
you are likely to enjoy the Cruce de Lagos trip as much as a
day's fishing. The Chilean phone number is 011-56-2-54-5200.
If
you are staying overnight to connect in Chile through Puerto
Montt Airport, I strongly recommend that you stay in Puerto
Vans, rather than Puerto Montt. It's a much nicer town. - Charles
G. Thacher.
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